Just thinking about a Caribbean cruise evokes thoughts of romantic interludes on starry nights, sunbathing in deck chairs, and visits to paradise island. But the latest-model cruise ships have rewritten the rules, putting so much emphasis on entertainment that it's hard to get outside, much less have a shipboard romance. A case in point is the ms Zuiderdam, the first ship in Holland America Lines' (HAL) new Vista class. This ship set sail last December loaded for bear, in terms of
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